One stitch at a time

SITI HAWA | 7 August 2026

Lim Yu Yin of Ang Eng shares how the artisanal boutique is helping preserve the traditional craft of making Nyonya kebayas for future generations.

AS Malaysia marks Merdeka Month, Ang Eng reminds us that the nation's heritage lives not only in its historic buildings and monuments, but also in traditions carefully passed from one generation to the next.

Established in 1955, two years before independence, the family-run atelier has witnessed Malaysia's journey while preserving the intricate craft of the handmade Nyonya kebaya.

For Lim Yu Lin, every Nyonya kebaya is a canvas for craftsmanship passed down through three generations.

Lim runs Ang Eng, a Kuala Lumpur-based boutique renowned for its exquisitely intricate handmade Nyonya kebayas. In Hokkien, “ang” means red, an auspicious colour in Chinese culture, and “eng” means crane, symbolising taking flight and soaring upwards.

While Ang Eng’s flagship store is located at Dataran Palma Ampang, it has recently set up a retail outlet inside Kuala Lumpur City Gallery at Bangunan Sultan Abdul Samad.

Called BikuBiku by Ang Eng, the space gets its name from “biku”, a term used by tailors to refer to the simple scalloped edge on a Nyonya kebaya. In a similar fashion, BikuBiku is a scaled-down, simplified version of Ang Eng, but still exudes the brand’s signature elegance and vibrancy.

That same colourful energy is reflected in Lim, 56, who is the third generation running the family’s kebaya-making business, established by Lim’s grandmother, Lim Wah Choon.

Ang Eng at a trade show in Teluk Wanjah, Alor Setar in 1955. Below: Madam Lim Wah Choon (third from left) with her pioneer kebaya seamstresses in 1958. – Photos: Lim Yu Lin.

Though not a Nyonya herself, Madam Lim had many Nyonya friends, who encouraged her interest in kebaya-making, leading to her opening Ang Eng right above her husband’s dried seafood shop in Pekan Cina, Alor Setar in Kedah.

“Kebaya-making has been my family’s tradition for over 70 years, so it’s become my life’s work to keep that tradition going by promoting the artisanal knowledge and skill that goes into making a Nyonya kebaya.

“I think there’s no better place to do it than here at Bangunan Sultan Abdul Samad, where a lot of visitors, both locals and international tourists, come by,” says Lim, who didn’t miss the chance to promote Visit Malaysia 2026 by wearing the kebaya she had designed, during this interview, featuring Wira and Manja, the campaign’s sun bear mascots.

Every Ang Eng kebaya tells a story through its embroidery, with intricate motifs inspired by Malaysia's rich flora, fauna and even beloved local delicacies, blending tradition with creativity in every stitch.

Standing the test of time

Ever an enthusiastic champion of the kebaya, Lim contributed to the multinational nomination (Malaysia, Brunei, Indonesia, Singapore and Thailand) that led to the kebaya's inscription on UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2025.

“The National Heritage Department asked me to design kebayas for the joint nomination, which resulted in my exclusive UNESCO kebaya collection that was inspired by each country’s iconic symbols and culminated in a final piece that united all the countries,” she shares.

Lim even flew all the way to Asuncion, Paraguay in 2024 to showcase her kebayas as part of the UNESCO nomination process.

“A lot of people there were fascinated by the embroidery work. Some even thought it was made using a machine! But no, it’s all done manually,” explains Lim.

Ang Eng’s kebayas, produced by a small team of 10 dedicated artisans, are typically made from Swiss voile, a soft, light and breathable fabric – perfect for Malaysia’s tropical climate. It's also known to be quite durable.

“It takes about one month to complete one kebaya. The most time-consuming part is making the kerawang (cutwork) embroidery, which requires very precise handiwork, depending on the design. So we average about eight to 10 kebayas a month,” says Lim, who manages the boutique alongside her husband, Lim Chung Hau.

Yu Lin with her mother, Ong Geok Lean, the second generation of Ang Eng. – Photo: Lim Yu Lin.

Known for making kebayas that stand the test of time, it’s no wonder that many of Ang Eng’s clients are return customers.

“They see the kebaya as an heirloom, a piece of our heritage that can be worn over and over again over the years, and then passed down to the next generation.

“It’s always touching to see a customer coming back to our shop with their daughters or granddaughters. Some of them have even become close friends,” shares Lim.

In 2024, in a tribute to her family’s legacy, Lim published The Journey of Ang Eng, a book showcasing Ang Eng’s kebayas and chronicling its history.

A perfect fit

For Lim, in a world where many turn to fast fashion due to price and convenience, it’s become a careful balance of preserving the traditional way of making Nyonya kebaya while also modernising the brand to appeal to younger generations.

“The kebaya used to be worn daily by Peranakan ladies, but now it’s only worn for special occasions, like weddings or Chinese New Year,” she laments.

Rather than seeing the kebaya confined to museums or festive occasions, Lim wants more people to experience wearing one. That thinking has led to BikuBiku by Ang Eng's "Rent A Kebaya" programme.

With “Rent A Kebaya”, you can browse their selection of Nyonya kebayas that come in a rainbow assortment of colours, pair them with accessories like kerongsang (three-pin brooches) and get your hair and makeup done, similar to renting a hanbok in South Korea or a kimono in Japan.

“This is a big step for us, as this is the first time we’re doing this, but we decided to give it a try because we want to get more young people and those who are perhaps not as familiar with the kebaya to try it on and fall in love with it,” says Lim.

For RM100, you can experience the finery of Ang Eng’s kebayas for up to three hours (which is more than enough time to get your fill of photos around Bangunan Sultan Abdul Samad), while for RM200, you can borrow one for up to 24 hours.

There are also shop assistants on hand to help you match the right kebaya top and batik skirt for you, and to help you put them on.

If you’ve ever had the thought that the Nyonya kebaya is only meant to be worn by those with slim, petite frames, Lim firmly waves the idea away.

“I believe that everyone should get the chance to experience wearing an Ang Eng kebaya, which is why the sizes for our rental kebayas go up to 5XL,” she says.

Not forgetting the men, there are also Baju Melayu available for rent, as well as smaller versions of the costumes for children.

Besides kebaya rentals, BikuBiku By Ang Eng also holds live demonstrations, offering visitors the rare opportunity to witness the time, effort and skill that goes into making a traditional Nyonya kebaya.

Seated at the antique sewing machine powered by a pedal pushed by foot, Lim’s aunt, Ong Yak Bee (see pic below), was patiently embroidering one of their hand-drawn designs, unperturbed by curious onlookers.

Lim thinks that it’s great to see modern takes on the kebaya, but ultimately feels that her role is to uphold the handmade method passed down by her grandmother.

“Back then, it wasn’t easy for a woman to start her own business. She had to learn how to do it by herself. It was very brave of her, and it goes to show just how passionate she was about the kebaya. So my goal is to keep that passion alive for generations to come,” concludes Lim.

Today, from its new home within Bangunan Sultan Abdul Samad – one of Kuala Lumpur's most recognisable symbols of nationhood – Ang Eng continues to connect the past with the present. Through live demonstrations, kebaya rentals and storytelling, it gives visitors a deeper appreciation of the artistry behind one of Malaysia's best-loved traditional garments while reflecting Warisan KL's mission of celebrating the people, places and living traditions that give the city its distinctive soul.

As Malaysia marks another National Day this month, Lim's work is a reminder that preserving heritage is not simply about remembering the past – it is about ensuring traditions continue to be worn, appreciated and passed on to future generations.