Kueh-linary Comforts

Amirul Zain | 10 June 2025

ON a warm afternoon, as sunlight slips through shutters and the sound of clinking teh tarik glasses and tea-time chatter drifts through kopitiams, the humble kuih makes its appearance. These bite-sized treats — steamed, fried, or wrapped in banana leaves — are more than just snacks. In Malaysia, they’re edible heirlooms, carrying the flavours and stories of generations across many cultures.

A plate of pastel-striped kuih lapis might sit beside a heap of crisp, golden vadai, while glutinous onde-onde dusted with coconut nestles next to spicy pulut panggang. Served with a hot cup of Milo, tea or kopi-O, these sweet and savoury treats are part of a uniquely Malaysian ritual — where Malay, Chinese, Indian, and Peranakan traditions come together in the most comforting way: around the table, in the in-between hours of the day.

Kuih is Malaysia’s unofficial love language — sweet, flaky, chewy, colourful. It turns up at birthdays, weddings, kenduri and more quietly, at the 4pm tea table. It doesn’t matter where you are — in a village, suburb, or right here in downtown Kuala Lumpur — if it’s kuih you’re after, chances are there’s a stall or shop nearby.

So whether you’re taking a break from emails, lounging with a date, or treating yourself after exploring the city, here are three spots serving kuih that feel like little love letters — passed down through generations, and from vendor to customer.

Putu Bambu @Pasar Seni

There’s something satisfying about watching this kuih made right before your eyes — steam rising from bamboo moulds, the gentle tap-tap as each cylinder is knocked free onto a banana leaf. At this little Putu Bambu stall just outside Pasar Seni, that old-world magic is still alive.

Operating for over 16 years, this family-run stall has perfected its recipe: a mix of tepung ubi (tapioca starch), tepung beras (rice flour), coconut, gula Melaka (palm sugar), and natural pandan colour and flavourings. The result? A soft, steamed green kuih crowned with fresh grated coconut — light, fluffy, subtly sweet, with a salty, flaky bite from the coconut.

Saiful, the man behind the counter, has worked here for five years. He says what keeps him going isn’t just the kuih — it’s the people. “The whole team feels like family,” he says, grinning. “No need to submit unnecessary forms if you want a day off.”

The stall attracts a mix of loyal locals and curious tourists. For regulars, it’s the go-to snack during the lull between lunch and dinner. For newcomers, it’s often their first bite of something unmistakably Malaysian — earthy and warm.

Secawan @Pasar Besar

Secawan is neatly tucked inside Central Market, beside Pasar Besar – a grocer-meets-artisan-market concept where tradition meets trend. Open for just two years, this compact café has quickly earned a name for itself with its array of beautiful, balanced kuih.

While its nasi lemak is a hit, the real stars are the kuih — homemade and thoughtfully refined. Bestsellers include the silky seri muka, the delicate blue-hued kuih tai tai, and the fragrant, banana-filled lepat pisang. The recipes are based on tradition, but tweaked to ensure balance and consistency.

Ainul, a bright-eyed staff member who recently transferred from cashiering to café duty, lights up when talking about the kuih. “Tourists are always shocked by the colours — they think it’s all fake,” she laughs. “But we use only natural dyes, from bunga telang to pandan.”

While the vibe here is contemporary, there’s care behind the counter. Every piece is made fresh in the morning and usually sells out by the end of the day — a testament to the growing demand for local sweets that aren’t just nostalgic, but also Instagram-worthy. The dining area is simple yet cozy, blending a mix of traditional tile motifs and modern industrial design, perfect for a quick rest stop while browsing the stores of Central Market.

Nyonya Colours @NU Sentral

At Nyonya Colours in NU Sentral, everything is polished — the service, the display, the kuih. And yet, there’s a warmth to it that feels genuine. This well-established chain has been around long enough to earn a place in many Malaysians’ hearts, serving kuih that’s as dependable as it is delicious.

The Nu Sentral branch has been running for 12 years, and Dwi, the soft-spoken supervisor, has been there for nine. “It’s been a long time,” he says, “but it doesn’t feel like work. My colleagues — even the regular customers — they’ve become family.”

While some might dismiss chains as overly commercial, Nyonya Colours takes quality seriously. Their kuih is made in a central kitchen in Damansara, using regional recipes from across the Nusantara — from Malaysia and Singapore to southern Thailand. Fresh deliveries arrive at each branch three times daily (8am, 10am, 3pm), ensuring that the kuih you get at teatime is fresh.

Unlike some stalls where the texture or sweetness can vary from batch to batch, Nyonya Colours offers consistency. Whether you’re craving a chewy kuih bingka, a glossy kuih lapis, or some crispy cucur udang, you’ll find it here — just the way you remember it.

Kuih isn’t just dessert — it’s cultural shorthand. Each piece holds memory, craft and identity in bite-sized form. Whether steamed in bamboo by the roadside, plated in a chic café, or neatly arranged in a chain store, kuih remains a daily joy — something to share, something to crave, something that reminds you that even in a fast-moving city, there’s always room to pause.

So the next time you’re in the heart of downtown KL, and you’re craving something sweet and grounding — skip the cupcakes. Reach for kuih instead.

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