A Fresh Pour of Malaysian Heritage

ALEX DAUD BRIGGS | 6 April 2026

From pot to cup, a quiet ritual – brewing the past into something we still savour today. – Photos: Way Studio

FOR over a century, Bangunan Sultan Abdul Samad (BSAS) has stood like a well-brewed constant in Kuala Lumpur’s ever-changing landscape – steady, familiar, and deeply rooted. Overlooking Dataran Merdeka, it has quietly witnessed the city steep through the colonial era into independence, absorbing layers of history much like a pot of kopi left to simmer just long enough to draw out its full character.

Today, as its doors open to the public for the first time, the building invites a new generation to take a sip of that legacy– one that is rich, complex, and unmistakably Malaysian.

For Edmund Goh, that moment arrived like a perfectly timed pour. After half a decade of growing his beverage chain, Bungkus Kaw Kaw, across the Klang Valley, he found himself presented with a rare opportunity: to set up a full-fledged restaurant within this historic space. Personally invited to be part of BSAS’s new chapter, he established Kaw Kaw Malaya – a concept that, much like a good cup of kopi, balances tradition with a modern finish.

“We didn’t actually know it was being renovated or that it would be open to the public,” says Goh. “But during that time, the management was looking for a local brand that could represent local cuisine, and they found us. They agreed that we could set up a larger restaurant here.”

A moment with Edmund Goh at Kaw Kaw Malaya, where even the walls tell stories – bold, colourful, and full of character.

Bungkus Kaw Kaw, founded in 2018, began with a simple idea: to take the everyday flavours Malaysians grew up with and serve them in a way that resonates with today’s audience. Think of it as re-brewing familiar recipes– keeping the same beans, but adjusting the grind and presentation to suit a new palate.

Goh and his partners drew inspiration from the rise of coffee culture across the Klang Valley, from established names to international trends. If a cup of coffee could be reimagined and elevated, why not nasi lemak or teh tarik? They realised that beyond taste, presentation was the missing ingredient – the foam atop the cup that makes people pause, photograph, and share.

“We thought about how to attract a new generation, or how to get people from the other side of the world interested in this cuisine. We know that packaging is very important. We have seen that no matter how good the taste is, if the presentation or packaging is only average, people won’t take photos or share it on Instagram or other social media.”

And so, Bungkus Kaw Kaw was built with a strong visual identity, bringing Malaysian classics into contemporary spaces while keeping them accessible. Yet beneath the polished surface, the essence remains unchanged – like kopi brewed the traditional way, strong and unapologetic.

Each Milo or teh tarik still arrives in a plastic bag tied with string, a nod to roadside stalls and morning routines. Each nasi lemak is carefully wrapped in banana leaf, folded and secured as it would have been decades ago. These details are not just aesthetic choices; they are part of the flavour itself. Like the aroma released when unfolding the leaf, they invite diners to experience food the way it once was – unfiltered, tactile and deeply personal.

Kaw Kaw Malaya marks the next pour in this journey. Moving beyond takeaway, it expands into a full dining experience that brings together flavours from across the country. Even its name carries weight: “kaw kaw”, evoking richness and intensity, and “Malaya”, a reminder of the nation’s early identity. Together, it reads like a strong blend – bold, layered, and rooted in heritage.

Stepping into BSAS feels like entering a cup mid-brew, where time slows and the outside world softens. Kaw Kaw Malaya sits comfortably within this setting. It is modern in its design, with a vibrant batik mural depicting Independence Day and a small gift shop, yet the space carries a warmth that lingers – helped along by the quiet hum of conversation and the scent of spices in the air.

Even the menu invites a deeper appreciation, offering not just dishes but stories – origins, meanings, and the cultural intersections that define Malaysian cuisine. It is, in many ways, a curated tasting of the nation’s identity.

“It was a great honour and a valuable opportunity,” says Goh. “Our vision is to expand and introduce Malaysian F&B culture to the whole world. So when locals or tourists visit, we want them to have an experience where they can truly feel the environment, something that feels genuinely Malaya, or Malaysia.”

In the end, Kaw Kaw Malaya is not just about serving food – it is about brewing memory, culture, and place into something that can be shared. One cup, one plate, one story at a time.