Banana Leaf Meals in KL: A Guide to Lebuh Ampang’s Historic South Indian Eateries

Banana Leaf in Lebuh Ampang

SOFIA SHAMSUNAHAR 22 December 2025

For first-time diners: a banana leaf meal is served without plates, with rice laid directly on the leaf and accompanying dishes added gradually, a little at a time. – Photos: JOHNNY ADAMS

EATING banana leaf is an experience – almost like taking part in a small performance. A glossy green leaf is placed before you, and one by one, the flavours you’re about to encounter are introduced onto your “stage.” Rice first, then the curries, the vegetables, the condiments – “konjam konjam”, a little at a time.

As you look over the spread, you decide which taste, which texture, which combination your fingers will explore first. And if you’re new to it, don’t worry – just follow the rhythm of the meal.

Partway through the meal, you might hear a gentle “Saaptaacha?” which roughly translates to “have you eaten, are you satisfied?” In Malaysia, it’s less a question than a gesture, a quiet check-in that says you’re welcome here, eat well, take your time.

When it’s over, the final gesture says it all: fold the leaf towards you to show your appreciation. No long speeches required – though a soft “nandri” (thank you) never hurts.

This colourful palette of rice, curries and sides carries layers of history. Rooted in India, banana leaf meals made their way to Malaysia when Indians migrated here during the British colonial period. Today, you’ll find versions shaped by regional influences, family traditions and neighbourhood tastes. Often described as South Indian comfort food – quick, affordable and hearty – no two banana leaf meals are exactly the same.

If you’re looking to enjoy banana leaf in one of the historic places where this culture first took hold in Kuala Lumpur, a good place to begin is Lebuh Ampang, within Warisan KL’s Heritage Triangle Precinct.

From Chettiar Roots to a Family Table

For a high-quality banana leaf meal, Betel Leaf is a standout. The family-run business sits along Lebuh Ampang – a historic street just a short walk from Central Market. This was where the Nattukottai Chettiar community from Tamil Nadu first settled when they arrived in Kuala Lumpur under British colonial rule. Known as financiers and moneylenders, they set up businesses along this road (once called Chetty Street), which explains the concentration of banks still found in the area today.

Today, the street has evolved, and many banana leaf restaurants have emerged – including Betel Leaf, owned by Arun Chockalingam, whose ancestors once lived on the same road. After years of connection to the area, the family purchased a building there and opened the restaurant. The response exceeded anything they expected.

What sets Betel Leaf apart is its focus on freshness. The restaurant shops weekly at a wholesale market to ensure that only the freshest ingredients make it onto the plate. The result is a meal where flavours shine – from the lightly spicy, tangy tamarind gravy to the creamy, earthy peanut chutney. In a unique touch, each banana leaf meal here also comes with a chapatti.

Even the poppadum reveals the restaurant’s attention to detail. Instead of the usual oily crunch, Betel Leaf’s version – made from black gram lentil – is light, crisp and flavourful.

It’s no surprise that banana leaf is the restaurant’s most popular dish month after month, with 1,200 meals sold monthly. Demand has grown so much over the years that they’ve had to stop serving the dish on actual banana leaves, switching to metal plates to keep up.

Still, the numbers tell the story: 250,000 banana leaf meals sold since opening. At RM14 per serving – generous enough for two people – Betel Leaf continues to draw loyal crowds. Drop by and you might be the 250,001st person to enjoy it.

A South Indian Kitchen

Mollagaa Restaurant opened in 2018 on Lebuh Ampang, a street where shophouse owners are required to preserve their building facades – an everyday reminder of the area’s heritage.

In the weeks leading up to Deepavali, the street becomes even more meaningful. Cars are redirected as the Lebuh Ampang traders association hosts a celebration for the B40 community, complete with a meal, a show and a speech from a VIP guest, along with contributions of daily necessities.

At the corner of the street sits Mollagaa, serving vegetarian and non-vegetarian banana leaf meals from 11am to 4.30pm. The non-vegetarian set features rice, an assortment of small curry bowls made with different proteins, stewed and fried vegetables, and a sweet serving of kesari – enjoyed either before or after the meal.

With a kitchen staffed entirely by South Indian chefs, the restaurant says its banana leaf follows the exact South Indian style.

One highlight that sets Mollagaa apart is its salted fish curry, which the restaurant says is not served at any other banana leaf establishment. The curry brings a rich umami flavour that balances the tamarind-spiced fish curry and the other zesty gravies on the plate.

Another signature is the blended lentil powder topped with melted ghee, giving a velvety, rich layer to the meal’s overall flavour profile. The fried snake gourd is a final distinctive touch – a lightly battered, crisp alternative to the usual bitter gourd, without the bitterness that can come from over-frying.

Mollagaa also offers a cosy upstairs dining space, lit by hanging glass lamps and framed by colonial-style windows overlooking the street and trees – a pleasant setting to enjoy their banana leaf meal.

The Last Original Mess Hall on the Street

For those who enjoy a meal in a thoughtfully designed space, Pappadom Restaurant offers banana leaf in a stylish yet comfortable environment. The interior blends modern touches with elements of classical Indian art: ceramic pots suspended from the ceiling and intricate paintings framed on what appears to be wasli, a traditional layered handmade paper.

The atmosphere is warm not only because of the décor but also thanks to the attentive staff, who readily share information about the dishes and offer help when needed.

Pappadom has been serving authentic Karaikudi Chettinad South Indian cuisine since 1983. It was the first mess hall on Lebuh Ampang and remains the only original one still operating.

The restaurant offers an affordable banana leaf meal, and their chutney is especially worth trying – a well-balanced blend of sweet, spicy, sour and savoury notes.

More Banana Leaf Spots

If you’ve already made your way through the restaurants on Lebuh Ampang, you can venture beyond the street and explore the wider heritage core of downtown Kuala Lumpur. Banana leaf culture didn’t stay confined to one road – it spread throughout the city centre, and today you’ll find well-loved eateries tucked between old shophouses, near temples and along the busy arteries of historic KL.

Here are a few more worth checking out: Vinny Jeyaa Banana Leaf Curry on Jalan Hang Kasturi; Karaikudi Chettinadu Restaurant in Masjid India, Vishal Food & Catering on Jalan Scott, Brickfields, Sangeetha Vegetarian Restaurant and Raj Bhavan Veg. Restaurant, both in Lebuh Ampang.

Whether you decide to stay within Lebuh Ampang or wander through the surrounding streets of old KL, you’re bound to find banana leaf meals everywhere – each place serving its own take on this much-loved culinary tradition. Enjoy!

Are you from KL? Do you have a favourite spot you go to for banana leaf? Write to us at [email protected] and let us know!

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