Sunset in the City

SOFIA SHAMSUNAHAR | 1 March 2026

Ramadan bazaars and buka puasa gatherings are more than seasonal events. They are living expressions of what Warisan KL seeks to nurture – a city where heritage buildings are not just preserved, but reinhabited; where public spaces are not merely photographed, but experienced. – Photo: Muhamad Shahril

THERE is something quietly moving about breaking one’s fast in the heart of Kuala Lumpur – where history, faith and city life meet on the same patch of grass.

As the late afternoon light softens, families and friends begin laying out picnic mats across the field once known as the Selangor Club Padang. In the distance, the copper domes of Bangunan Sultan Abdul Samad glow warmly – newly refurbished, yet still bearing the dignity of their 1897 Moorish Revival design. This is the very square where the Union Jack was lowered and the Malayan flag first raised in1957.

Today, it witnesses a different kind of gathering. At the sound of the azan drifting from the nearby Masjid Negara, hundreds pause in unison. Dates are passed hand to hand. Bottles of water appear from coolers. A humble spread of watermelon slices, eggplant fritters and home-cooked dishes becomes a shared feast.

A group of friends beckons us over. They have never met us, yet a cold bottle of water and a slice of fruit are immediately offered. Around the padang, tissues and kurma move easily between strangers. It is a reminder that Ramadan’s most enduring heritage is not architectural, but human.

Tariqul Isnam Avash, a 24-year-old from Bangladesh, explains that he and his friends work six days a week here in KL, but live far apart. “Spending our buka puasa at Dataran Merdeka is a way for us to come together,” he says. Here, beneath the clocktower that has kept time over the city for more than a century, they refresh their minds, talk, share and eat as one.

“It’s been an amazing experience for me because it’s my first time breaking fast with people around Malaysia and KL. The atmosphere is very good, we can see a lot of people from different races all coming together,” shares another picnicker, Mohd Danish Dzarfan from Pahang, taking in the multicoloured tapestry of the crowd.

Tariqul Isnam Avash and his friends, all who work in KL but live far apart, enjoy catching up at public spaces in the city such as Dataran Merdeka to break fast together. – Photo: Johnny Adams

Picnics beneath a new skyline

Just a short walk away, another historic ground has found fresh purpose this Ramadan.

At the foot of Merdeka 118 – now the second tallest building in the world – stands Stadium Merdeka, where Tunku Abdul Rahman proclaimed “Merdeka!” seven times to a newly independent nation. The 1957 declaration still echoes through Malaysian memory; this Ramadan, it also echoes with laughter, quiet conversations and the rustle of picnic mats.

Visitors gather on the stadium’s grass and even along its stands. Some run laps along the track before sunset. Others paint on canvas while waiting for Maghrib. The contrast is striking: the elegant modern spire rising skyward behind a mid-century stadium that helped define the nation.

“It’s really heartwarming and also a bit nostalgic because this is such an iconic place, especially with Merdeka 118 behind us,” says KL-resident Syafique Shuib, 39. It is his first picnic here. “I didn’t know what to expect – and it’s a good crowd.”

As if to reinforce the spirit of the place, someone passes Syafique and his friends (pic above) dates to break their fast. “A nice gesture to have among three friends, surrounded by fellow Malaysians in this iconic place,” he adds.

For those who arrive empty-handed, Bazram Merdeka – running until March 18 – fills the stadium grounds with food trucks and stalls. Satay smokes gently over charcoal. Keropok lekor sizzles. Burgers flip on hot plates.

Fortysomething vendor Shah Nasir of BizVico believes more people should discover this setting. “They can not only buy food for iftar, but also break their fast here. There are many beautiful viewing spots, and visitors can also perform Maghrib and Tarawih prayers at the nearby mosque. Parking is also plenty and easy.”

This Ramadan, Stadium Merdeka transforms into a sanctuary of laughter, hushed conversations and picnic mats at dusk. – Photo: Stadium Merdeka

There are unexpected offerings too. Azril Che Ibrahim runs Massage Unwind, a reflexology booth staffed by blind therapists. “Stadium Merdeka is iconic – it’s where Malaysia declared independence in 1957. So having our bazaar near such a historic spot makes it extra meaningful,” he says, hopeful that more will come to support the vendors.

At Binwani’s, Ravin Binwani sells samping – the traditional cloth worn around the waist with baju Melayu. His RM29 pieces are bestsellers. “This setting is very nostalgic. Reminds me of the days when I used to come here to watch KL versus Selangor!” he laughs, urging visitors to read up on the stadium’s history before settling down to eat. “Gives you a great sense of being a Malaysian.”

From customised photomagnets to fluid art keychain workshops, the bazaar blends commerce with creativity – heritage layered with contemporary expression.

Iftar in the Skies

For those seeking a different vantage point, one can ascend the very tower that now frames Stadium Merdeka.

Occupying floors 75 to 114 of Merdeka 118, Park Hyatt Kuala Lumpur offers a Ramadan buffet at Irama Rasa. Breaking fast on the 98th floor is undeniably a thrill – the city unfurling beneath you as dusk settles over the Klang Valley.

The spread features Malay classics such as Peha Ayam Kuzi Badam Hancur and Jenahak Goreng Rampai Cili Garing alongside Middle Eastern and Western influences. It is a far cry from picnic mats on grass – yet equally a reflection of how Kuala Lumpur evolves while keeping culinary traditions close.

Café Culture & Contemporary Iftar

Warisan KL’s shoplots offer yet another way to buka puasa – relaxed, intimate and often inventive.

At Kafe Kleptokrat, diners sit around a turquoise courtyard pool inside a restored heritage building. Its Ramadan set menu features local favourites such as Asam Pedas Sea Bass Fillet and Ayam Goreng Berempah, proving that good design need not come at the expense of flavour – or affordability.

For a lighter, plant-based alternative, The Hungry Tapir turns beloved Malaysian dishes vegan. Tempeh cili padi masak lemak, satay and mushroom rendang offer a refreshing contrast to meat-heavy buffets.

And at Olea Dining, Mediterranean flavours take centrestage. Handmade plates carry dishes “From The Garden”, “From The Sea” and “From The Land” – from stuffed artichokes to tender lamb chops – offering yet another way to gather meaningfully at sunset.

Fasting may be deeply personal, but in Kuala Lumpur, iftar belongs to the city. It spills onto historic squares, into stadium grounds, along five-foot ways and up into the skyline – a shared ritual that threads together memory and modernity. From grass fields to glass towers, each setting reveals a different layer of KL’s story.

Across these spaces, Ramadan bazaars and buka puasa gatherings are more than seasonal events. They are living expressions of what Warisan KL seeks to nurture – a city where heritage buildings are not just preserved, but reinhabited; where public spaces are not merely photographed, but experienced.

Through the collective efforts of private stakeholders, public partners and government agencies, Warisan KL continues to revive the soul of Kuala Lumpur – ensuring that its historic heart beats strongly, especially in moments like these, when the city gathers at sunset as one.

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